Mar 2017 - Costa Diadema - Day 5 (La Spezia)

Day 5 La Spezia

It's a little misty and cloudy as we edge carefully into La Spezia passing the oyster farms and getting our first glimpse of the Cinque Terre landscape. La Spezia is a large port - much larger than I was expecting. If you suffer from insomnia and want an alternative to counting sheep then there's enough containers here to put you into a coma. Quick breakfast in the cabin(we never seem to get the same attendant twice, so not only is it a mystery who will deliver the breakfast and at what time; there's the added fun to see how they interpret the order - what random bit of bread have they included for that tick box that says muffin).

You have to take a bus shuttle to the port entrance from the ship - watching this procedure early in the morning from the balcony there seemed to be some lack of communication between the ship and the drivers resulting in long lines forming; it soon sorted itself out though and when we went down the line had completely gone.

For some reason I had neglected to upload a port guide here as we knew we wanted to get to the railway station and head up to the villages of the Cinque Terre by train. (In the Spring and Summer you can do this by ferry which dock on the public waterfront - but they are not running at the moment and TBF the train is much quicker and only costs a couple of Euros). So after studying maps near the taxis we were just about to set off when an English couple (where have they been hiding all week) asked if we wanted to share a taxi. On reflection if the weathers good (which it is today the grey cloud having now lifted) I would walk - its not as far as the map seems to indicate and is a pleasant walk along the waterfront - just follow the fat palm tree boulevard along the waterside then turn right. It will take about 20mins if you stroll and as there's only one train an hour north you could use this to pass the time. 

As it was we ended up at the station way too early - so we  wandered back into a little square in the town and sat in the sun. Very peaceful and La Spezia itself has some lovely architecture that reminds me a little of the South of France.

A short train ride took us Michael Portillo style to the village of Riomaggiore. The villages are scenic but the train ride is mainly through tunnels. Its a remarkable work of engineering. Just remember that when the train stops in a tunnel it's probably because the station can only fit a couple of carriages on so get out and walk along the tunnel towards daylight. Until the arrival of the railway in 1874, the five villages of the Cinque Terre were little fishing hamlets, accessible only by sea.

Harbour - Riomagiorre

Our great plan was to buy a ticket for the coastal walk path and hike to the next village but unfortunately most of the paths have been closed this year as they have become too dangerous for the public to use & were being maintained. So after climbing down to the tiny little village harbour (you reach this through another tunnel) we climb out of the steep valley and around the village - all the time looking for a little gem for lunch.

That little gem happens to be tucked away on a balcony at the foot of the main village. Its a lovely little family run trattoria 'La Lampara' excellent with everything prepared freshly by hand. I often have doubts about handmade claims especially when the village is so isolated but a quick look up the main village street shows a fantastically stocked butchers and a fish shop full of this mornings catch. I have the seafood ravioli in a red mullet sauce -Individually made soft raviolis, packed with clams, crab, parmesan and more with a thick red mullet sauce containing full pieces of fish fillet. Jack has a traditional veal bolognese which is also beautifully seasoned with a hint of nutmeg running through it. We wash it all down with a bottle of cinque terre sangiovese, which is gorgeous.

Another walk and climb around before we head back to the station (for some reason the trains are more frequent going back as the intercity service from Savona stops at this village on its way to Genoa and Pisa) and head back to La Spezia where we stroll through the town and along the waterfront (the route we should have used this morning). 

 

Dinner tonight in the MDR was interesting as I shocked Jamie by ordering the rabbit - he seemed to want me to change my mind and order the other meat choice (I think he was worried about the bones) and in the end I think we both lost track of what we had ordered. Rabbit however turned up and he offered to change it but I stuck with it and it was delicious. A nice thick sauce accompanied it - though to quote that old saying "It tasted like chicken" - though a good strong chicken with taste.

Tonight we catch TNT band- a French/Sicilian 4 piece rock group who do wonderful covers ranging from Pink Floyd to the Beatles in the Country Rock Bar. Now these sound good; nice and loud but in a strong and exciting way. When they take their break and the usual two piece come on it confirms my theory that the two piece are adding so much reverb to make themselves sound a bit fuller its distorting the sound and booming out the room.

Later we catch a bit of a Spanish guitar style duo who are playing classical numbers that the dancers are going nuts for, filling the dance floor with superbly executed sambas and flamenco moves. My head says I can do this but unfortunately my body doesn't seem to comprehend what's required.

Click here for Day 6

Mar 2017 - Costa Diadema - Day 4 (Rome)

Day 4 Rome

Picking the pilot up early we docked in  Civitavecchia with a slightly overcast sky that should clear later. One benefit of this itinerary is the ship spends quite long days in each dock. The slight disadvantage though is you don't get to see that many actual sail ins/aways as its either too early or too dark. We take breakfast in the cabin. This suits us much better, especially with these early starts on such a port intensive itinerary.

We are going to Rome this time and had already researched that the Costa bus from the ship, just a simple transfer with no tour would be best.

We have been to Rome several times before however last year when we docked here we got together with some folks from the CC roll call and did a "Not going to Rome" tour which was excellent - details can be found by clicking here. This time, we decided  it would be nice to have a relaxing walk around, find somewhere nice for  lunch (we ended up in a little trattoria full of locals in a little square behind the town hall (piazza Capranica) which was nice and simple but probably served the best spaghetti carbonara I have ever tasted) and then took in all the major sites.

The bus dropped us at the Coliseum, then we headed to the  Altar of the Fatherland (or the big white typewriter as some locals call it)  via the Imperial Forum before heading to our favourite building the 2000 year old Pantheon where we stopped for expensive coffee. Slowly the clouds began to break up to let the sun through. 

From here we went through to the Trevi Fountain (as busy as ever) which has certainly been cleaned since the last time we saw it. Next we headed west to the Bridge of Angels to cross the Tiber stopping for lunch on the way. The Bridge is of course well known for its Dan Brown connection but we remember it more from a relatives wedding in the summer where it was so hot we all spent the time  finding an Angel to hide under for shade, dressed in our finery.

After crossing we made our way from Castle Sant' Angelo and walked directly to St Peters alongside the Popes connecting wall that leads from the Castle to the Vatican and was used as an escape route if the sitting Pope needed protection. Once at St Peters we paid the 15E front of line fee to miss the 2 hour queue out.  Worth it in the end because otherwise you would have spent most of the  day in Rome in a queue just to see one building.

From St Peters we got onto the bank of the Tiber (the one Daniel Craig drives down) and walked all the way back to the Circo Massimo before turning back towards the Colosseum to meet the bus (almost 3 miles). Make sure if you take this trip you have a good idea of direction and distance - Rome is wonderfully walkable (we covered 6 miles today and that doesnt include the wandering around in Churches and Squares plus getting lost!) but the distances can be misleading through the mazes of streets (plus you always find yourself stopping and staring or taking photos). The bus took us back to the ship with two guests missing, yikes, E200 for a taxi. Take note people.

Our walking route

We arrived back onboard about 6:00pm. It had been a long day and we went back to the MDR for dinner to the delight of our waiter (who must have missed us last night). It was Italian night tonight - an odd name for the night seeing as every meal is Italian in style . The reason for this title is midway through the sitting an opera starts and all the Italians start waving napkins (I have no idea why but hey - when in Rome) this is then followed by ballroom dancing in the aisles with the waiters (much to Jackie's delight as she now has someone she can dance with who doesn't stand on her toes) and a rather hilarious Italian version of a conga. I say hilarious because one table nearby decided to join the conga one by one and then all disappeared out of sight somewhere in the depths of the MDR leaving a poor toddler sized daughter sat at the table in a high chair crying! oops. 

Jack stands alongside the Cathedral length marker for St Pauls London

Dinner was once again excellent - highlights being tonight a lovely gnocchi in a sage sauce that was light and fluffy, not at all like the dumplings we seem to get at home. The suckling pig was tender, melt in the mouth perfection. Coffee and an early night for us. It's been a long day.

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Mar 2017 - Costa Diadema - Day 3 (Sea Day)

Day 3 Sea Day.

A slight swell during the night rocked us to sleep - Breakfast came to the room as ordered (though a little early) then we walked around the promenade deck for a little exercise. Its cloudless today; slight breeze but nice and warm. The promenade deck on the Diadema is an example of how a mid level promenade deck should be - they sadly seem to be disappearing in the quest for more and more rooms and balconies. It wraps totally around the ship like they did in the 'good old days'; it's extra wide reaching beyond the width of the ships body like a pier so that the tables for cafes, sunbeds and even extra hot tubs all have adequate space . It  also has the benefit of not having a dual role for the boarding of  the lifeboats so nothing blocks the view out to sea. The lifeboats have their own boarding level one deck below.

Sitting here on the prom drinking real coffee is a delight (every bar has a proper 'Illy' coffee station - the advantage of being on a ship aimed at the Italian/Spanish/French market who would throw a fit if they were presented with some of the filtered swill other cruise lines call coffee. We have lunch in the MDR today - not too rushed and an excellent menu to choose from. And the afternoon is slowly passed in the sun sipping Campari on the decks.

Its formal night for Dinner tonight and we had  pre booked into one of the upgrade offerings  called the Samsara where we're happy to discover the price we booked it at was wrong and we will get it for half price because we have the Brindiamo drinks package. Just an extra 15E each. The dinner is superb, lovely Italian/Asian Fusion very fresh tasting. The restaurant is a good size, nice and intimate - though as is often the case on this ship the lighting could just do with being a touch more subdued.

Jack starts with the ceviche of scallops with a pomegranate reduction and I opt for the oyster bar choice served with pickled cucumber/birds eye chilies and a soy reduction.

Next we have a coconut milk infused risotto with shiitake mushrooms. The Asian Italian fusion cooking  works deliciously.

For the main course Jack had monkfish wrapped around thick crispy fried chorizo on a bed of spinach and creamed potatoes with a dusting of powdered pancetta. A gorgeous combination of flavours and textures. I had the shrimp which was grilled and served with a seafood bisque, tempura vegetables and Parmesan crisps. These were lovely big juicy prawns. 

Dessert is a twist on the classic French tarte tatin with mango. I settle for a classic gooey inside chocolate cake.

I would say most men have donned a tux or smart suit (TBF its good to see that most of the Italian/Spanish/French dress well every night - you don't see that many T Shirts or Shorts during the day  never mind at night, but then again they think its the middle of the winter.)

We didn't bother with the main theatre tonight as it was described as a circus show. Not really our thing. So another great evening in the Piano Bar and the ballroom area watching the guests dancing whilst sipping coffee and campari and trying to keep a straight face whilst eating wasabi nuts Jack is now addicted to them.

Click for day 4 

Mar 2017 - Costa Diadema - Day 2 (Palma)

Day 2 Palma

Awake for Breakfast at 7.00am delivered to the cabin- not convinced we actually got what we ordered but hey its the first morning so we'll let it go. One thing I have noticed with the Diadema is its noise and vibration level. Its practically nil when docking and using bow thrusters compared to other ships we have cruised on - though it has to remembered this ship is only 2 years old.

We arrive in Mallorca  in bright cool sunshine but its more than warm enough for us Brits to take tea and croissants on the balcony. We were only in this port last year so it  looks familiar now and we walk to the bus stop into the city. Last year the Jade had managed to dock on a pier that was a lot nearer to the city, the Diadema seems to be in a berth that's as far away as possible - so on reflection just take a taxi if you're docked all the way out here, its actually just as cheap and far more convenient than the bus as we discovered on the return trip.

The Old Town with the Cathedral

Musea de Mallorca

We wander around the beautiful old town spending some time visiting the Musea of Mallorca (free today as are many museums and galleries as its the Balearic Islands Weekend Festival). This is hidden down a maze of back alleys and is home to a beautiful collection of  pieces in a well laid out set of rooms that takes you from the 14th to the 19th Century It also gives you an overview of the changes in art not only on the island but how the renaissance in Italy influenced those changes. Even if your not interested in the collections of art and tiles the two former palazzos the museum is housed in are wonderfully restored.

We take a break for coffee in a charming little establishment  next door to the Cathedral then we hail a taxi to take us up to the old 14C Gothic Castle Bellver which has stunning views of the Island and the city of Palma .

Donjon of Castle Bellver - Cathedral of Palma can bee seen through the archway

A little tip here is to pre book a return taxi back from here as all the cabs in the rank are usually already reserved for the day - or you could simply follow the old steps down to the nearest main road; you'll be able to hail a taxi from this point in minutes once you reach this point.

View from the Castle Walls

Nice paella onboard for lunch (take a tip from the Spanish passengers and get a separate dish to load extra mussels and prawns into) then sat around the stern pool with a nice cold beer. Sunny and mild for us though the Italians on board seem to be dressed as if its the middle of deep winter.

Mid Afternoon in Palma

Font Madness

Just a few more observations re Costa and the Diadema - As I mentioned before the first thing that you notice is the decor/bling - its seriously OTT in a charming yet slightly jarring Italian/Spanish style - its quite startling until you get used to it especially if your used to the  calm low key decor of other cruise lines. Personally I think it also causes another problem; gold leaf walls with yellow signage in a bizarre selection of randomly mixed fonts doesn't help you navigate. And the tiny signs for the washrooms (again yellow on gold) are easy to miss. As usual I get lost at every opportunity.

Dinner in the Main Dining Room again tonight and Jamie is on hand  remembering our wine and  water choices instantly. We learn from Jamie how  the menu has changed a lot in the past few weeks because the prime customers (Italians) had not taken well to the last executive chefs menu. Things are now more traditional ie simple but quality ingredients. It works because tonights menu is actually one of the best MDR experiences I have had on any ship. Jamie supplies me with a copy of the menu so I could get the listings correct.

For Antipasto we had the Veal millefeuilles with black pepper, crisp salad and walnut with a pear and Gorgonzola sauce. Melt in the mouth buttery meat. Jamie asks us for full details on how we enjoyed this as its a new dish and he has not had time to try it - apparently the Italians who have our table on the next sitting are keen for a full description of every dish on the menu.

Zuppa (Soup) was Pappa ai pormodoro on a potato cream with sauteed endive and olives - think NCL Cagneys Baked potato soup and refine it a little and you're near the mark. Delicious. The olives give it that extra zest and saltiness (Jack would disagree; olives being her one gastro hate)

A Pasta dish follows of Garganelli with swordfish , tomato and basil, on a cream of cannellini bean and strong ricotta. Superb.

For the Piatti Principalli I chose the beautiful lamb cutlets with green crust and dried fruit, saffron potatoes and marinated courgettes with a thyme/masala reduction

Jack had the sliced beef fillet with aubergine pie au gratin, basil sauce and milk stracciatella.

Apparently we are two of only 50 English speaking guests on board. Its not an issue because all the staff have English as their first language. As Jamie our Philippine waiter explains - "You just watch the body language when your serving the Italians or Spanish and you can usually work out what they mean"

After a decent amount of rest we had the warm chocolate and walnut pudding with blackberry sauce and a lemon scented custard.

And lastly the rather comical looking Fruits of the Forest bavarois with cooked grape must. After a few more glasses of wine we head to a bar for espressos and cappuccini.

 The theatre show tonight is a solo opera singer which the Italians love; hes actually pretty good. We spend a little time in the piano bar sipping Camparis and then try the "rock country club" - a really well proportioned room (This is the size the tiny Cavern should be on the Epic) though even for us its bloody loud in here (its only a two piece and they have way too much reverb on to boost up the sound).

People had mentioned on CC how everyone dances on this ship - waltzing, rumba(ing) or jiving. Earlier today in the Atrium I passed a large group having cha-cha-cha lessons - on other ships you can spot the instructor, spot who knows what they are doing (unsurprisingly on our Eclipse TA last year that was a group of Italians) and admire those who try their best. Here its like watching a group of pros en masse. Its beautiful to watch - though I'm left feeling inadequate especially as Jack is quite capable.

Click for Day 3 

Mar 2017 - Costa Diadema - Day 1 Barcelona

Day 1 Barcelona

A surprisingly painless flight, although bags took quite some time,  Jet2 Manchester to Barcelona.  Anyway into a taxi (Barcelona is the city of taxis - you never wait for them and every other car seems to be one) and 39Euros later plus tip we are checking in at the cruise terminal and on the ship for 2pm along with what looks like an entire classful of 16 year old students who are never seen again!

The Costa check in procedure is a little different though a lot quicker - No one asks for a Credit Card or takes a pic or even hands you a ship card. Sign here - wait there - and get called to board. Hopefully all will become clear at some point and hopefully in English as apart from a couple of Canadians and two American ladies we seem to be the only English speaking people in the check out line. Eventually we are called and taken aboard where your photo is taken just as you set foot onto the deck. We have a balcony cabin which is well proportioned and clean. Its nicely laid out and functional, it just lacks a little plushness and luxury of say Celebrity and can't compete with NCL on wardrobe space - this is more functional and oddly feels a little dated in the decor even though this is a practically new ship. One unusual design feature is the lack of french windows - instead a door leads out onto a pretty decent sized balcony. Your ship cards are waiting for you on the bed and your drinks package and dining arrangements are printed on the rear of this. You then scan your card at one of the many portals around the ship and link it to your credit card. Its hard to judge if this saves any time as the Diadema is a year round,same route & can embark at any port. So less people per port embarking & disembarking.

We decide to head to lunch in the Buffet/Lido. I wouldn't call this an easy ship to navigate as the amount of Italian bling decor can be a bit confusing as it leaves a lot of the public areas looking very similar. However we find the glass elevators and follow the general flow of people to the buffet restaurant. All I can say is it is much nicer than I expected as a lot of people had commented on how poor the choice is, how you can never get a seat and how rude and aggressive the passengers can be. We found none of this and there are hundreds of seats if you walk a few steps to the aft as the area used for Corona Blu restaurant is opened up during Lunch time. We both choose  some lovely roast ham from the carvery, washed down with lots of red wine and finished with fresh beautifully baked foccacia and cheese. The other choices look fine, plentiful and hot. OK a lot of the dishes may have an Italian theme to them but guess what, this is an Italian ship with a mainly Italian or Spanish clientele (if you need a Yorkshire pudding with every lunch your probably on the wrong ship).

Muster practice is unusual in that we actually have to don life jackets - fortunately the demonstration is only in two languages & is over quickly and efficiently.

Dinner is in the main dining room where we meet Jamie our waiter and find we have a table to ourselves. We never normally do the set time dinner thing but decide to give it a go. Costa seems to run the dining room a little differently. Your waiter runs 3 or 4 tables himself which includes taking orders, serving, clearing and drinks. It seems to work fine, Jamie never lets the glass run dry (we have the Brindiamo level drinks package) and is attentive and helpful. The meal is beautiful, 4 courses presented Italian style; light starter, pasta dish, main meat/fish followed by dessert) its all very well  presented and extremely tasty.  Good service, the  wine and water continuously flowing (thank God its included) and the food and plates always hot (NCL take note). The Diadema  slips silently out of Barcelona some time during dinner.

We find a Bar (at this point the ships still a mystery so I have no idea what it is called) for an espresso and capuccino as coffee is not served in the MDR. Wherever you wander on this ship the smell of freshly ground coffee permeates the air like a glorious perfume. It appears this rooms going to have some sort of talent competition so we move next door to a smaller club (the piano bar) where an Italian or Spanish singer/piano player (Stefano Marcolini) does a marvellous set - they also know how to mix the perfect campari and soda.

Wander around a little more and find ourselves at the main theater where a rock style show is taking place - nice theatre, good staging, and most importantly a live band. Quite enjoyable and certainly better than some I have seen on other ships - again the band making the difference.

The ship has a nice multilevel, large and spacious feel to it with many rooms, bars and restaurants spread around. That does not mean this is  a quiet ship though, in fact it's quite the opposite - the decor is loud and the people are lively. Its not annoying though - to slip into stereotypes; there's a  positive  listening to a lively Italian or Spanish conversation - you can't tell what the foreigners are talking about :)

Click here for day 2