NCL Getaway - Baltic Cruise - Pre and Day 1 Copenhagen

2nd - 3rd Jun 2017


The timing of this cruise and the flight times meant that if we were to see any of Copenhagen we would have to take a flight out the afternoon before our cruise day. We used Easyjet to fly directly from Manchester to Copenhagen a nice short hop of about 90mins . The airport is to the south of the city and the port to the North so we chose an apartment/hotel in the redeveloped old port area to the North within walking distance of the fort and  den Lille Havfrue -little mermaid statue. Booking these type of rooms gives you the equivalent size of a hotel suite plus a little kitchen - handy for a quick breakfast. The Adina rooms were spacious, clean and in a nice area of the town.


Initially my plans to get to the rooms were just to hop in a taxi, but we couldn't resist taking the train into the city (about a 20min ride) and then taking a taxi from central station (which is right opposite the Tivoli gardens) to the hotel. On reflection a better plan would have been to stay on the train for a further stop North to get out of the central city as we spent most of the taxi ride sat in rush hour gridlocked traffic in an annoying Mercedes which had some eco habit of turning off the engine every time we stopped moving and thus turning off the air conditioning - Copenhagen was warm and humid tonight.


Checked in and had a great dinner at a little trattoria across the road form the hotel (most of the guests seemed to be Americans heading for a cruise) but it was reassuring to see a lot of locals in here and the food was excellent (as was the local draught beer)


den Lille Havfrue
Boarding began at about 12pm the following day and reception informed us we could just leave the bags in the room until then so we had a leisurely walk across to the little mermaid. The first surprise was the weather. Hot and sunny at 8am (at least for us) and not at all what I was expecting from Denmark in early June. The harbour is only a few hundred yards from the hotel and it doesn't take long to realise you're in the right area as there are what seems like hundreds of tour buses descending on a small strip of esplanade to drop people off to look at the little mermaid. Last week I noticed on the news that  she had been doused in red paint as a  protest (fortunately they hadn't cut her head or arm off this time) but this had all been cleaned off.

Dan on the Bridge to Kastellet and St Albans Church
Barracks - Kastellet
Behind this area is a lovely Anglican Church and the Winston Churchill Park which both guard the entrance to Kastellet, a star fort which has been turned into a public park, though the central buildings are still official barracks. We completed a circuit around  the star shaped walls in the sun. I like Copenhagen, nice people - very clean city and well organised.

MSC Magnifica
All this strolling around passed the time so it was time to return to the room grab the suitcases and head to the ship. Not as simple as it sounds as taxis seem to be a little bit of a rarity once out of the city centre and the hotel could not get hold of one for at least another hour. Fortunately there is a bus stop right on the corner of the street which appears from the map to go all the way to the Cruise Terminal buildings - however you must have the correct Danish Krona in coins and we had none. A solution came from the fact you can spend Euros in the Netto opposite and get change in Krona so armed with a bottle of water and some very odd looking coins with holes in the middle we got the bus. It was packed full of cruisers and we had a lovely conversation with an Italian man who was doing the similar cruise with Costa (we had looked at this and a few other options but no one seems to better NCL on the itinerary other than Viking). In fact quite a few ships leave every day from Copenhagen to begin their Baltic cycle; today at the terminal was NCL Getaway, MSC Magnifica, Costas Favolosa, Vikings Sky, RCI Serenade of the seas (I think we last saw this on our TA whilst in Nassau and it still looks like it desperately needs a lick of paint and some rust remover) - with all these passengers to deal with daily its no wonder taxis are so hard to find.

Terminal 1 - Copenhagen Cruise Terminal
The bus dropped us next to terminal 1 which seems to be the Getaways usual spot. Boarding was painless with no lines to speak of. There are no airway type walkways onto the ship here its just a simple gangplank into the bowels of deck 4.  Rooms were not yet ready as it was a little too early but the decks are all open as is the buffet. Avoiding the first lunch buffet scrum as its usually everyone's first instinct we climbed to deck 6 where Savor ( one of the MDRs) was open for a more refined sit down 3 course lunch.

Jack - Wine - and Lunch in Savor ( or Savoury is we named it!)
Our package had included the Ultimate drinks package and 4 upgrades to premium restaurants - grats were included. We booked a mid ship mini suite (why don't NCL just call this a larger balcony room) quite some time in advance so received double latitude points and had a nice $300 credit gift waiting in the room as well. The room is a little larger I think than NCLs Epic mini suite  and has a much better bathroom including a body massage shower and twin sinks. The balcony though is a little on the small side though we knew in advance about this so it was not a surprise. Pri introduced  himself  and indicated our cases would appear within the next  couple of hours so we decided to go and explore around the ship.




Jack's most excited that the fish carpets are back like they had on the Jade - at least she will know which is front and back for a change (just remember - the fish swim to the front). One of the things I never liked about the Epic was the pointless promenade deck where you cant see anything as it has a dual purpose as the lifeboat deck. The Getaway has overcome this problem in a similar (if not quite as successful) method to the Costa Diadema we were on in March. The lifeboats have their own deck and a wider promenade deck gives uninterrupted views out to see and wraps around 3 sides. This area also allows the Getaway to open up some of the premium restaurants to the outside as well - which is probably fine as she cruises around the Caribbean - not sure if the evenings will ever be warm enough in the Baltic.


However it does allow some great seating and outdoor bar areas that are perfect for sun-downer cocktails - though there is a slight if rather obvious flaw in this idea in that cabins directly above these areas are surely going to get some noise issues - perhaps that's why they made the balconies so small so you wouldn't be to tempted to sit on them whilst quietly watching the sunset (an issue in itself in the Baltic as it feels like it never goes dark).


Eventually we are unpacked and one by one the ships all leave Copenhagen, peculiarly all heading North which is odd as Berlin (or rather Warnemunde) is directly to the south under the TV famous Oresund Bridge ("The Bridge") that connects Copenhagen (Denmark) to Malmo (Sweden). It seems that whilst the Bridge is certainly tall enough to allow ships through, the water itself is not deep enough for the larger vessels to pass.


The usual NCL sailaway party then time to change for our first dinner and first experience of the latest edition to the premium restaurants "Ocean Blue". A seafood specialty restaurant, its decor is nice and calming, its staff attentive and most importantly the food is excellent - we book straight in again. I recommend the Oyster Rockefeller - Dover Sole - Cold Water Lobster  and any dessert.


We have trips planned for the morning all pre booked with a third party company SPB tours (other tour companies are available). Big thanks to the roll call organisers on cruise critic which gave us a further discount on SPB Tours usual prices. Smaller groups and way better value than NCLs own options we booked the Berlin full day and 2 day Deluxe for St Petersburg (don't forget you must have a trip booked for St Petersburg or you wont get past immigration without a full visa) your trip ticket becomes your visa as long as the tour company are registered to do this.


Its an early start tomorrow and a rather depressing 3 hour drive to look forward to. But you're only here once and I can't see Berlin ever being on my weekend away list. So an early-ish night after checking out various bits of entertainment around the ship. A  quick  check of the map shows we are heading south again. Weather forecast looks miserable tomorrow with heavy rain forecast for Germany but the good news is that rain front is heading east in front of us and behind it is clear weather which hopefully should last for the rest of the cruise.

Click here for day 2 

Jun 2017 - Garden Update


June has seen a mix of weather to start with. Wet and windy (very windy at times) has given way to hot hot hot. Gertrude Jekyll is a s usual the first rose to open. Soon have this trained all over the front (west and south facing) entrance wall


Have extended the lawned areas (or in other words tamed the field) even further now and added two more apple trees and two Rowan saplings to line the grass pathway.


Beds not really springing to life yet - other than the Iris which has been superb (split it into three after last year) and the Antirrhinum (snap dragons) which have over wintered. Peonies (Sarah Bernhardt) just starting to flower - smell gorgeous but must remember to move the one from the woods this time (way too shady.

Apr 2017 - Mini Cruise to Brugges

A 2 hour drive into a wet and windy spring afternoon in Hull. Its Dans birthday so we decided to book a quick P&O mini ferry cruise to Brugges. Not a place (or country for that matter) we have ever visited before.


We have a few hours spare on arrival so we spend it wandering around the 2017 European city of culture that is Hull. There are indeed many impressive buildings here from the Victorian age and some god awful 1960s disaster sites - my favourite being the (hopefully deliberately ironic) University School of Architecture which looks like a cross between a block of tenement flats and a multi-storey car park - its probably a listed building. We find a lovely little tea shop on the harbour front and indulge in clotted cream, scones and strawberries to pass the time and watch the rain pass - which thankfully it does.
A short drive to the port and we are parking  at terminal 2 where we decipher the bizarre codes used on the pay and display machines to try and make it give us a ticket for 48hrs. We then spend a further 15 minutes helping every other confused soul wandering around the car park in confusion.


Check in is fast and after being given various bits of paper and tickets for meals and for the coach into Brugge we are ready to board the "Pride of York" (formally the MS Norsea 1987). Shes a good old fashioned roll on and roll back off the way you came ferry (as she only has a back drive on door). Basic, but amply functional with a couple of lounges/bars, a coffee shop, a huge duty free and two restaurants; one buffet style  - though we chose The Brasserie - the full service option, which was good.
Our outside view room consist of a private bathroom and shower and a pair of single beds bunk style. Clean, tidy and adequate for a couple of nights. We head to the Brasserie and book a table for later in the evening (your buffet coupon is worth £19 against the a la carte menu here and anything in excess of that you simply pay for at the end of the meal).


A Campari and beer in hand we stroll outside to watch the final trucks and cars being loaded on board and we are soon on our way. Oddly the dock used by the Pride of York is tidal so the ferry has to pass through  a  lock system first and there are literally inches to spare on either side as the ferry passes through it.

Dinner that evening is excellent - a starter of mushroom thermidor followed by a beautiful fillet of Bream - cheese and crackers for me (wine by the way is served in healthy 250ml measures on board)  and a chocolate melting pudding for Jack. The restaurant is very relaxing with excellent and professional service from the entirely Portuguese crew - good choices on the menu and decent choices for wine. We didn't even look at the alternative self service option but looking at the queues to get in I'm glad we didn't bother and had done a little research in advance.

I wouldn't say we had a great nights sleep - in fact it was quite a shock to find it was morning (I had rather stupidly totally forgotten about the time difference). One slightly annoying aspect of these mini cruises be it on ferries or the cruise lines is the clientele they attract can be a little too heavily aimed towards the hen and stag party. Anyway there's no chance of oversleeping as you're awoken an hour before docking by a tannoy announcement which is literally two inches from your ear if you chose the top bunk.


After a hot shower we were dressed and ready for the  good cooked breakfast to set us up for a day in Brugge (Again we upgraded to the Brasserie - no queues, private table service on white linen, and hot food - just do it). The weather had cleared quite nicely and included in your ferry ticket is a transfer into the city from the port of Zeebrugge which is about a 25minute trip.


Brugge rather like Venice is one of those beautiful medieval cities that is best enjoyed by simply wandering in and getting lost among the streets. Our research consisted of little more than watching "In Brugge" the 2008 film with Brendan Gleeson and Colin Farrell and glancing over a few web sites. Basically head to the square, take in the surroundings, sample the gorgeous beers and find somewhere in a quiet side street for lunch. If you're a chocolate lover you would be in heaven, every other shop sells nothing but  - though its difficult to work out whose producing their own and whose just selling mass factory produced Belgian Chocolates (do a little research first if le chocolat is your thing).


So what did we do - I'll simply let the photos do the talking but basically the top bucket list items seem to be climb the 366 steps to the top of the belfry in the market square, visit the only Michaelangelo statue outside of Italy in the church, walk around the cute wooden windmills that lie around the towns edges - drink gorgeous coffee and beautifully crafted beers from the various monesterys and lose yourself among the beautiful houses and streets.

Diligence
For lunch we dived into the smaller side streets away from the Market Square and found a  lovely little bistro bar called "Diligence" which purely by coincidence was the same restaurant used for a scene in the film "In Brugge". There's a 'lovely' little description on the door as you enter which must be one of the most bizarre claims to fame ever "Here was shot the scene in the bar with the dwarf and the prostitute". Its also apparently a favourite haunt of the Belgium Prime Minister - anyway the food is excellent and the wine simply sublime.


The big touristy and reasonably priced option (as its set by the city at 8E) is to do a quick canal trip around on the little boats you will see darting around, personally I would leave it unless your visiting in the summer and want to get into the shade and nearer to the cool water otherwise it could be a little nippy - also its hard to actual get pictures from such a low vantage point.



View from the top of the Belfry






April 2017 - Notes from the Barn

Hyacinth Aiolos
One of the first warm weekends for quite a while; finally the hedgerows are springing into life, the daffodils (we choose varieties that have a later season as the winds can be bad) are opening up along with the Hyacinths and Tulips and the grass has been cut.

Answers on a postcard please :)
Talking of Daffodils I'm not sure what variety this is though as it seems to be a random refugee among a group of 'Pipe Major' . It looks great but whoever bred this must have lived in a perfect world of no rain and no wind as without staking its head is simply to heavy for its stalk to hold it.


Last year all the tulips 'Olympic flame' were potted along with masses of these lovely Muscari Armeniacums (Grape Hyacinth). Needless to say the desired effect didn't work because they flowered at completely different times. We transferred the whole lot to one of the beds and this year it looks like we may be in luck.

'Pipe Major'
'Cheerfulness' looks bright and cheerful

Mar 2017 - Costa Diadema - Day 7(Mars)

Day 7 Marseilles


We arrive in the early hours. Marseilles is not a place we have visited before.  Our last cruise to the Riviera stopped at the beautiful tendered port of Villefranche where we followed the ship's French Captain down a tiny backstreet to a lovely little Bistro for lunch . Here we dock at an enormous new complex to the North East of the city and have decided to do a walking tour in the morning then maybe a little shopping after lunch. The shuttle from the port takes about 15 minutes to slowly wind its way through the huge industrial port. We are the only cruise ship docked here today though it can handle up to 6 at a time which must make for a crowded city.

Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure
Church of Saint Laurent
Our walk takes us through the old town stopping at local bakers for a little taste of the crunchy/lemony Navettes biscuits (one of several specialities of the region - the others being that lovely olive oil soap (make sure the %  oil content is correct) and that god awful drink Pastis, which looks and tastes like a solution for cleaning paint brushes in). At a stretch you could probably add Bouillabaisse though every town on the Cote d'Azur claims its version as the authentic one.

The old Harbour with the Basilica Notre Dame overlooking it.
Once again we are warned about how Marseilles is the pick pocket capital of the world - I suspect with all these warnings some guests must think the moment they enter the city limits they will be surrounded by hordes of professional multi millionaire pick pockets. As usual just take the same precautions you would take in any town or city in the world. What they don't warn you about; as Paul Theroux describes it so eloquently in his book "The pillars of Hercules" - is that the Cote d'Azur is without doubt the dog shit capital of the world.


Having said that this is a beautiful city - a lot of money has been spent pedestrianising and cleaning the buildings and new museums have sprung up all around the harbour. We eventually end up in the picturesque old harbour of the city surrounded on every side by restaurants and bars. A local fish market is taking place - everything looks fresh and fantastic.  Unfortunately we cant buy the fish to take back but we do stock up on bars of olive oil soap.


Marseilles is an excellent hub port to have on the itinerary - the TGV from here can take you directly to Aix en Provence or Avignon within an hour. Avignon I would highly recommend. You can also enjoy  a hike up to Marseille's basilica which sits on the highest peak overlooking the harbour or take a small ferry to the outlying islands.

We return to the ship for a late lunch and drinks which we take in the quiet section in the rear of the buffet with the captain and several officers. It looks likes most have had family members join them when we docked at  Savona for a cpl of nights. The lunch speciality today is a giant multi meat tower of various meats spit roasting like a huge donner kebab.  Delicious with all the trimmings added.

Dinner tonight is excellent yet again with fresh fish being heavily featured on the menu - a fitting choice for Marseille.  Whole Bream for Jack and we give the Lobster a try tonight. Its good but as is usual on cruise lines its a warm water variant so lacks the softness and sweetness of a good New England or British beast from the icy waters - however its well cooked and seasoned with Parmesan and herbs - its not quite a thermidor but its a huge a step up from boring "drawn butter".



All in all this has been an excellent cruise - a superb,very repeatable choice of ports each with many options for traveling on somewhere different each time. We have been lucky with the weather for March in the Med - warm and sunny apart from that one day. The ship is delightful - big but spacious, plenty of  wide open decks and excellent venues inside. Food has been superb and we actually enjoyed the set dining time (not something we ever use on NCL or Celeb). The drinks package is probably the best value of any cruise line and with it including such superb coffee is an absolute must. Service charge is a reasonable 10E per day though we tipped our waiter and steward a little extra.


Mar 2017 - Costa Diadema - Day 6 (Savona)

Day 6 Savona.

The memorial to lost mariners watches over the harbour in Savona
Drizzle greets us as we arrive into Savona - a pretty port town where the Diadema seems to be almost within reaching distance of the town for a change. Fortunately we have a trip booked today or to be more precise we have a bus booked for a simple drop off and return to Genoa - which is probably a good thing looking at the darkening skies above.


We are a mixed bunch on the coach, mainly French and the rest made up of various countries who just happen to understand English. It makes for a rather interesting commentary as we travel along the coast across huge floating bridges and deep tunnels. Our bi-lingual Italian hostess speaks perfect English (and French Jack reliably tells me).

She supplies us with a handy little map and goes through everything we'll need to know (and where to go) re Genoa and handily also dishes out a Costa waterproof poncho to stop you drowning in what is now a proper English downpour. Fortunately Jack has come prepared with a rather battered parapluie so at least she doesn't have to look like a cling film wrapped tourist...

The rain has slightly eased when we arrive but looking at the sky I don't think it is over yet so I don the emergency Costa poncho. Every trader in Genoa of course immediately surrounds the bus on arrival to sell you an umbrella. Genoa itself is a very walkable and stunning medieval town. The main sites are all in easy walking distance of each other and luckily most of them can be reached by staying under the loggias of the buildings.


Our first stop is the Cathedral of Santa Lorenzo. It reminds me from the outside of the cathedrals of Florence or Sienna with its imposing striped granite facings both inside and out. The cathedral had a fortunate escape during the second world war when the city's port and warships were being shelled as part of a British Operation. Due to a slight miscalculation, a British battleship fired an armour-piercing shell at an Italian Cruiser and missed (by quite a margin) - the shell landed  in the south-eastern corner of the cathedrals nave. The soft material of the walls (compared to armour) failed to detonate the  fuse and the shell therefore did not explode. It is still here displayed in a corner - I presume they defused it!


Next we continue across the square to visit the Church of Jesus and the Saints Ambrogio and Andrea. A stunning building on the inside despite its rather more modest exterior in comparison to the main cathedral. The altarpiece is the thing to see here, a 1608 masterpiece by Rubens "The Circumcision" (ouch).


Coffee and some respite from the rain being needed we nip into a little bar - everyone seems to be wandering in for a quick coffee and a piece of focaccia for a morning snack.

From here we wander through towards the old gate of the city, the Porta Soprana with its two majestic towers, where tucked away in a corner behind the city walls is the house of Christopher Columbus.


Other than the churches the big attraction in Genoa is the UNESCO area of bankers palaces so we make our way  through the Maddalena: a network of narrow medieval alleys that lead to the city's unmissable Via Garibaldi, dubbed "the street of kings".

We start in the Palazzo Doria Spinola which  is one of over 40 Rolli Palaces in Genoa that was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2006. Rolli Palaces were built and owned by the Noble republican families of Genoa and were the first example of exclusive public lodging in Europe, providing sumptious accommodations to visiting cardinals, princes etc. Here today we seem to be the only guests and the building is now used as an administration building for the town hall. A serious looking police officer shows us how to get to the first floor balcony to see the large frescoed maps decorating all the walls of what were the important trade points. The rulers of Genoa wanted to step out and look at the wealth. The windows have been blown open and it's raining on these majestic works of art so we run around closing the windows. Every wall is covered in a city map painted in the 16C ; a few maps are missing/destroyed because at some point (I bet it was the 60's) some lunatic architect added doorways to office rooms straight through the middle of the frescoes!

Genoa
Then we wander down the drenched Via Garibaldi before diving into the bar in a museum for wine - focaccia and coffee. A young Japanese lady who also looks a little drowned  asks where I got my wonderful Costa poncho from and is overjoyed when I produce a spare from my ruck sack and give it to her. My good deed for the day done the sky clears and the sun pops out.


By the time we arrive back in Savona for a late lunch on the ship the sun is out and you would never have known it was raining this morning. Please don't tell me the sun came out and the rain stopped   as soon as we actually left this morning.


Savona is actually one of the few places on this cruise where it's actually been possible to get a decent picture of the ship. You are normally either too close or there's a huge building alongside her. She's quite a graceful looking vessel for her size with nice classical form - as opposed to looking like a  tower block at sea.

Dinner tonight is excellent - the main being a lovely cut of melt in the mouth veal for myself and red mullet for Jack. Tomorrow we head for France - but tonight its rocking away to TNT and mellowing out to more Pink Floyd whilst sipping an espresso - ahh life is good. 

Click here for day 7